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You really need to try practicing on some sections from broken rods or even dowels that you paint and let dry first (paint and dry is seperate and several days before you try marbling. Its just preparing test pieces , broken or cut spare rods sections are better)
Use flexcoat or other faster curing epoxy ginish (high build) as this wil keep your marbling patterns distinct. if you use aftcote or similar slow cure , the marbling will diffuse into the base coat and look different. notice i said different because its not nescessarily ugly. In fact I like some of the diffused marbling looks. Anyway , this is just another example of why you need to play around on test pieces to see how what you do looks like after the process is complete.
other than practice , the only other big issue is exactly when to apply the marbling to the base coat. For sharp marbling lines you want the base coat set up stiff but still levelable. For the more diffuse look you want it more liquid and for very diffuse you go for the slow setting finishes.
Practice, trial and error on test pieces , is what will make you successful the first time you do one that counts on a finished rod.
Oh , start with just an easy section like a foregrip etc. Leave doing between guide feet , etc for when you are good enough not to have to ask how to do it.!
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