Designing lips....

[Slipknot]

You got lots of good answers here already, if it were me, I would go the route FrankR was heading and shim the lip in place. remember, you are just test swimming it, not fishing it. If you were test fishing it and did not want to put it in with epoxy, drill a 1/16" hole thru the body and lip from under and lock it in place. I do that anyway since the thrashing fish is just gonna knock the lip out anyway if just glued.

[Slipknot]

here is one example of a fish knocking the lip off during the battle

http://www.bmwoodworking.com/brucefi...e25lb52607.jpg


one of these plugs here in this pile
http://www.striped-bass.com/Stripert...bunkerpile.jpg

[Mokes]

Originally Posted by Slipknot

here is one example of a fish knocking the lip off during the battle

http://www.bmwoodworking.com/brucefi...e25lb52607.jpg


one of these plugs here in this pile
http://www.striped-bass.com/Stripert...bunkerpile.jpg

Are those yours Slip?? Mama mia!!!

[Slipknot]

Ryan Smith of RM Smith plugs made those for a swap in 07

[Mokes]

Originally Posted by Slipknot

Ryan Smith of RM Smith plugs made those for a swap in 07

Okay.....now they look familiar. You don't much of him doing handcarves. Pretty awesome work. I'm happy if it's semi-round, lol.

[justinhill]

Originally Posted by Slipknot

Ryan Smith of RM Smith plugs made those for a swap in 07

those almost look like a lunker punker

Black Dog Baits Lunker Punker

[numbskull]

The length of the lip does not do as much for depth as the angle and position of the line tie. Think of a redfin that has a long thin lip, and a rebel deep diver that as a wide horizontal lip.

The wider the lip, the more roll (often useful in handcarves that tend to have tight wiggles). Think of the bigO that has a flared lip. Particularly on these lazy-shaped square sectioned "handcarves" (as opposed to the thin deep finnish minnow shapes) that people turn out with a bandsaw and sandpaper, a wide lip may be needed to force the square belly and associated chine to roll a little.

The position of the line tie on handcarves is complicated with regards to depth. Vodkaman has a complex discussion about it over on the TU site. It is a vector problem. In general, the closer to midline the deeper you go for any lip set up, which is why top running baits usually have the line tie under the nose a bit. For true deep running baits, the line tie needs to be on the lip and as close to midline as possible (I think).

[Mokes]

Originally Posted by numbskull

The length of the lip does not do as much for depth as the angle and position of the line tie. Think of a redfin that has a long thin lip, and a rebel deep diver that as a wide horizontal lip.

The wider the lip, the more roll (often useful in handcarves that tend to have tight wiggles). Think of the bigO that has a flared lip. Particularly on these lazy-shaped square sectioned "handcarves" (as opposed to the thin deep finnish minnow shapes) that people turn out with a bandsaw and sandpaper, a wide lip may be needed to force the square belly and associated chine to roll a little.

The position of the line tie on handcarves is complicated with regards to depth. Vodkaman has a complex discussion about it over on the TU site. It is a vector problem. In general, the closer to midline the deeper you go for any lip set up, which is why top running baits usually have the line tie under the nose a bit. For true deep running baits, the line tie needs to be on the lip and as close to midline as possible (I think).

Wow. I just kinda wung it, lol. Kinda second guessing that now.

Good info. Vodka is a SMART dude. He constantly confuses me with intelligent stuff, lol.

[Mokes]

Originally Posted by Slipknot

You got lots of good answers here already, if it were me, I would go the route FrankR was heading and shim the lip in place. remember, you are just test swimming it, not fishing it. If you were test fishing it and did not want to put it in with epoxy, drill a 1/16" hole thru the body and lip from under and lock it in place. I do that anyway since the thrashing fish is just gonna knock the lip out anyway if just glued.

Yeah I do, lol. Glad I asked here. What I'm going to do is actually take this advice and apply it to few different plugs I am learning. I guess the 1st year you build, you get all excited and try cranking out stuf and rush to hurry and try them to see what happens and you're really building and learning so many things it all gets muddled.

I think this is the year I slow way down. Take everything I've been taught thus far, and build a bunch of new protos it spend a day on the lake just testing. Now that I can make stuff, I can actually try some new ideas and use my past experience to move forward.

I don't think everything needs tweaking, but with some of the learning curve be lessened, I can understand what's going on better now I hope.