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Go Back   Striper Talk Striped Bass Fishing, Surfcasting, Boating » Build Stuff: Custom Plug & Lure Building, Rod Building » Rod Building

Rod Building So, you've landed a nice fish on a plug you made, eh? Now, the next step, building your own RODS!

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Old 02-05-2010, 03:49 PM   #1
SeaWolf
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just note that the 1213m is a lot stiffer than the 1363m. the 136 has a lower low end and the 121 has a higher high end for weights.

2" off the tip of the sb1083m changes almost nothing.

DZ's 1L has 1", maybe 2" cut off the tip. i measured it when i fixed it a couple years ago.

just a reminder, cutting a lami blank voids the warranty if you ever plan on needing it.

i still think the gsb1201m or gsb1321m is your best bet. the 120M is not that much more money than the glass blank. they handle larger eels, load well and still offer a great plugging rod if you ever plan on doing that with it. talk to "bobcat" this weekend if you go to the show.

i'm not sure if you are fishing braid or mono, but if you are fishing braid the single best piece of advice i can give you on a slow action rod, like the glass ones mentioned, is using fuji's new guide concept. your rod tip won't bounce.
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Old 02-05-2010, 05:00 PM   #2
Crafty Angler
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeaWolf View Post
just note that the 1213m is a lot stiffer than the 1363m. the 136 has a lower low end and the 121 has a higher high end for weights.

2" off the tip of the sb1083m changes almost nothing.

DZ's 1L has 1", maybe 2" cut off the tip. i measured it when i fixed it a couple years ago.

just a reminder, cutting a lami blank voids the warranty if you ever plan on needing it.

i still think the gsb1201m or gsb1321m is your best bet. the 120M is not that much more money than the glass blank. they handle larger eels, load well and still offer a great plugging rod if you ever plan on doing that with it. talk to "bobcat" this weekend if you go to the show.

i'm not sure if you are fishing braid or mono, but if you are fishing braid the single best piece of advice i can give you on a slow action rod, like the glass ones mentioned, is using fuji's new guide concept. your rod tip won't bounce.
Thanks again, Dave - didn't realize the difference in the high and low end ratings between the 1213M and the 1363M

I'll look up the bobcat if I can make it to the Edge on Sat.

Oh, on the 108 I was talking about trimming off 2 feet, not 2 inches - actually Russ Bassdozer did an article about cutting a 108 down to 6 1/2 or 7' (cut from the butt) for spooks, topwaters and plastics - although I don't think I'll want to do that to a nicely wrapped rod

I'll probably just make it an anniversary gift for Mrs Crafty when she fishes her 'gummy bears' (shads and plastics)...

And yeah, I'll be using mono on the rod - I guess there still are a few things you can't teach an old dog like me...

Thanks again

Cheers...

"There is no royal road to this heavy surf-fishing. With all the appliances for comfort experience can suggest, there is a certain amount of hard work to be done and exposure to be bourne as a part of the price of success." From "Striped Bass," Scribner's Magazine, 1881.
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Old 02-05-2010, 11:34 PM   #3
Mike P
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If I could get my hands on an old SSB 136 3M, I would take it over a 121 3M. The SSB was my go-to beach spinning rod for a lot of years, from the mid-1980s almost until the turn of the century (remember when that term referred to the changeover from the 19th to the 20th?).

For eels, I would probably take all the trimming from the butt.

But in a perfect world with a bigger budget, I would take an XRA 1205 over any glass rod.

Wise men speak because they have something to say; Fools, because they have to say something.
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Old 02-06-2010, 04:47 PM   #4
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I also think graphite is way better. If you get a graphite rod with a slow taper , it will perform like a glass rod but be much lighter.

One big issue I alway see if that people want just a little more range on the lure weights than the blanks offer. This is human nature. You could have a thousand more blank models available and people would still want one that will do 1 oounce more or 1 ounce less than the rod can really do!

Crafty , I would look at the Lami CSB series. Its got several rod that do about what you are describing.

Here a quick explanantion I have posted before on the SOL rodboard but maybe not here that will help in rod selection

The rod modulus is comprised of two parts. The materials modulus of elasticity and the rods cross section modulus called its moment of initia. It can have a crosswise component and a lengthwise component.

The material modulus is often quoted by the manufacturer as a rod attribute like the higher modulus graphite used in the XRA models , its a material property. However , that material modulus can be super high and not effect the rod much or it can be super low and you can still have a very fast action rod. The missing part is the rods modulus caused by its geometry.

In general , if a rod has a big difference between its tip and butt diameter , the rod will have fast action and will stack up quickly as its flexed. The more you flex it , the further down the bend goes but as the bend goes down the rod length the cross sectional modulus gets very high because the diameter increases. That's why it "stacks up".

When you look at the glass rods , you are seeing a big effect of the materials elastic modulus because there is a big difference between the modulus of elasticity in gless and graphite rods. graphite of course being way higher. If you only consider the material , you need to go to the low modulus glass. What you are looking for in the glass rods can be found in the grafite rods by looking for rods with a small change between the tip and butt diameters. Now the other thing that contributes to the sectional modulus is the thickness of the wall of the blank. So in addition to looking for a small taper in the rod , you want to also look for rods with thinner walls and low materials modulus.

A great rod to show the effects when both factors are high is an Allstar 1209. The rod has a big taper and a thick wall. Therefore its a pool cue. A good example of the other extreme is steelhead rods like the GSH Lami series. They have some 11 1/2 feet long but there is very little difference between the tip and but diameter and they bend gradually all the way down their length.

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Old 02-08-2010, 12:45 AM   #5
Crafty Angler
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Thanks, Saltheart...

I never really knew much about the physics behind the blanks, just which characteristics I liked in certain situations based on personal experience

I looked around on the Lami site and saw the Triflex Surf Series for those CSB blanks - the only 1 piece I saw was a 10' rated at 1-4 if memory serves - composite may be the best of both worlds



Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike P View Post
If I could get my hands on an old SSB 136 3M, I would take it over a 121 3M. The SSB was my go-to beach spinning rod for a lot of years, from the mid-1980s almost until the turn of the century (remember when that term referred to the changeover from the 19th to the 20th?)...

But in a perfect world with a bigger budget, I would take an XRA 1205 over any glass rod.
A friend just PM'd me the other day that he has exactly the 136 3M I was looking for in brandy new shape that he wants to sell since he's thinning out the herd - so it looks like I'm set for this season, anyway...

I do know several guys who have the XRA - I'll have to test drive one with a bag full of eels

And yeah, I know about the perfect world scenario - I've already resolved to live my next life with considerably more money...

Thanks again, men...

"There is no royal road to this heavy surf-fishing. With all the appliances for comfort experience can suggest, there is a certain amount of hard work to be done and exposure to be bourne as a part of the price of success." From "Striped Bass," Scribner's Magazine, 1881.
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