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Plug Building - Got Wood? Got Plug? |
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01-18-2010, 11:41 AM
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#1
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Super Moderator
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Georgetown MA
Posts: 18,206
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Hey, Joe, how long does it take for that stuff to dry....when I was using BLO i used to have to wait a solid week to 10 days before i could paint it.
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"If you're arguing with an idiot, make sure he isn't doing the same thing."
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01-18-2010, 11:42 AM
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#2
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BigFish Bait Co.
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Hanover
Posts: 23,392
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I let my blo/mins dry for a minimum of 5 days in the warmer months.....7 days in the winter! No problem! No need to rush it! How long were you dipping Kev?
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Almost time to get our fish on!!!
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01-18-2010, 11:59 AM
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#3
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Great White Scup Hunter
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: In the Corner...
Posts: 2,251
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Dad Fisherman
Hey, Joe, how long does it take for that stuff to dry....when I was using BLO i used to have to wait a solid week to 10 days before i could paint it.
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Kev- hardwoods that I really let soak it up I leave alone for 24 hrs,,,, but if you use it on cedars overnight is fine,,,,
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01-18-2010, 12:10 PM
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#4
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Respect your elvers
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: franklin ma
Posts: 3,368
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Rookie question
What is BLO?
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It's not the bait
At the end of your line
It's the fishing hole
Where all the fish is blind
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01-18-2010, 12:25 PM
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#5
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Oblivious // Grunt, Grunt Master
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: over the hill
Posts: 6,682
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Back Beach
What is BLO?
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Another name for cocaine, which is what you need to be on to use that stuff. Takes for ever to dry, and the rags like to ignite spontaneously in your trash can and warm up your foundation for you.
I'm no expert on this, but I think BLO (boiled linseed oil) is just a wood oil with very poor crosslinking/drying behaviour. Varnishes and Tung oils are related compounds that dry much faster. I do not believe there is ANY advantage to using BLO for ANY kind of wood finishing, unless you want something cheap to spread on your cedar shingles and make them all nasty black. Yeah it works, but there is nothing special about it and plenty of other stuff works as well (and more safely).
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01-18-2010, 12:25 PM
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#6
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Reading Mass/Newburyport/merrimack river
Posts: 3,749
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Back Beach
What is BLO?
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Boiled Linseed Oil..
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A good run is better than a bad stand!
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01-18-2010, 12:24 PM
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#7
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Reading Mass/Newburyport/merrimack river
Posts: 3,749
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Dad Fisherman
Hey, Joe, how long does it take for that stuff to dry....when I was using BLO i used to have to wait a solid week to 10 days before i could paint it.
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24 hours is fine.. dry as a bone...
I give BLO 10 days.. as I've said before, time is not an issue with me, I've got no issues whatsoever, no paint adhesion problems etc...... I've got a million things going at once, I'm just loooking to see if I personaly find something that works better for me... and though i'd share with "the group"
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A good run is better than a bad stand!
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01-18-2010, 12:30 PM
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#8
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Reading Mass/Newburyport/merrimack river
Posts: 3,749
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Dad Fisherman
Hey, Joe, how long does it take for that stuff to dry....when I was using BLO i used to have to wait a solid week to 10 days before i could paint it.
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The main difference between BLO and Tung oil, is BLO requires heat to cure/dry....Where as Tung oil, relies on oxygen to cure..
Which brings me to a possible problem, skinning on the surface, I've got a 1 gallon can ( with cover) that I am using, by keeping the can full and covered, skinning has not ( as of yet) been an issue, it's been almost a month.. so far so good..
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A good run is better than a bad stand!
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01-18-2010, 01:48 PM
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#9
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Pembroke,MA
Posts: 784
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rockfish9
The main difference between BLO and Tung oil, is BLO requires heat to cure/dry....Where as Tung oil, relies on oxygen to cure..
Which brings me to a possible problem, skinning on the surface, I've got a 1 gallon can ( with cover) that I am using, by keeping the can full and covered, skinning has not ( as of yet) been an issue, it's been almost a month.. so far so good..
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This is the big problem I was having when i was using waterlox. Great sealer but you have to be very careful about it skinning over. One way I've heard to fix it to make sure air isn't penetrating the can is to take cellophane over the opening before you close the jar. Then by putting the lid over the cellophane you effectively make it air tight.
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01-18-2010, 01:57 PM
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#10
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Schwenksville, PA
Posts: 21
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I don't post much because I am content to sit back and learn from all you guys, but I have been using tung oil and turps with a splash of spar varnish for several years now and have had great results. I usually let dry for 1-2 days and then use rattle can oil primer as the base for my finish. Have had no problems with splitting, water-logging or adhesion.
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