Minor details I can't seem to find

[nightfighter]

Originally Posted by Tagger

A plug that worked the bottom well at a slow retrieve was a Floyd Roman Nike 3 ounce,, but I wanted to make the smaller size ..

PNG is the Roman Nike guru. He gave me a "blem" (ya right. it's beautiful...) at Plugfest 3 or 4 years ago. I've swum it a couple times, but it resides in my show collection where I can see them all winter. PNG is who you want to talk to Eddie.

As for the original question; maple's moisture content varies more than birch, as far as what I have been able to buy for stock. While I am a neophyte, I like my stock to be as dry as possible before turning. More stable wood that way, but means it will absorb more sealant.... As for your wanting the plug to sinkl to a certain depth and stay there, I think you need to weight it, at least to offset the natural buoyancy of that species of wood.

[numbskull]

Maple or birch for needles/darters
AYC/AWC/Pine/Basswood for swimmers/pencils/spooks
AYC/maple for jointeds
You will build much better plugs if you learn to weight them, although darters usually don't require it.

Depth control on plugs is dependent on many factors....not just the wood used.

[Zeal]

Originally Posted by numbskull

Maple or birch for needles/darters
AYC/AWC/Pine/Basswood for swimmers/pencils/spooks
AYC/maple for jointeds
You will build much better plugs if you learn to weight them, although darters usually don't require it.

Depth control on plugs is dependent on many factors....not just the wood used.

I understand the depth control variables, the main concern is that heavier wood = sinks more than wanted with hardware on it and heavily affects the motion.

I know it sounds odd, but I have a bunch of split shots laying around, would using them as the lure weight be feasible (sorry I watched a lot of Macguyver growing up)?

Adding weight, you put weight in the tail for the lures including the darters or you need weight in the belly as well?

This advice is really great, I really appreciate it.

[Tagger]

Originally Posted by Zeal

I understand the depth control variables, the main concern is that heavier wood = sinks more than wanted with hardware on it and heavily affects the motion.

The farther back you put the line tie, the more a darter will dive also .. Well sought after Musso/Pichney darters were unweighted . Hate to sound like a broken record but if you do go the unweighted route might consider hydro orientating .. damm .. opened that can of worms again ..

Yes Paul,, I I think thats the size .. I know that PNG guy a little ...

[ProfessorM]

Originally Posted by Tagger

T

Yes Paul,, I I think thats the size .

I will send you the original with the weights, disassembled. I'll put in mail this week. I am sure VB won't mind as it is a beater. You can give it back at plugfest and someday I may even give it back to Peter. It really is a nice deep swimming plug. I made mine out of AYC.

[Zeal]

Originally Posted by Tagger

Hate to sound like a broken record but if you do go the unweighted route might consider hydro orientating .. damm .. opened that can of worms again ..

By Hydro orientating you mean shaping the blank piece of wood, sealing (if you prefer it), and then putting it in water to see where the top and bottom of the lure is before you put hardware on?

I've been thinking about basically shaping the lure (including making the head slope down since we are talking about a darter in this case), sealing it to avoid water absorption, and rubber banding the hardware on it and dumping it into a bucket/tub/tank etc. to see what happens before you go any further.

Am I just thinking into this too much or asking the wrong question? Process of building the lure out of order?

[Zeal]

Originally Posted by numbskull

Maple or birch for needles/darters
AYC/AWC/Pine/Basswood for swimmers/pencils/spooks
AYC/maple for jointeds
You will build much better plugs if you learn to weight them, although darters usually don't require it.

Depth control on plugs is dependent on many factors....not just the wood used.

For needles, do you typically weight the tail and the belly or just the tail? I am using Maple for the wood and aiming for around 5"-6" range, just kind of unsure where to add weight into the needle body. Aiming to make the needle a sinker not a floater.

[numbskull]

Most needles have a tail weight and a belly weight, set up so they sink at a 30-45 degree angle.

Time for you to try the search function, however. Tons of stuff you will learn easily if you do.

[Zeal]

Originally Posted by numbskull

Most needles have a tail weight and a belly weight, set up so they sink at a 30-45 degree angle.

Time for you to try the search function, however. Tons of stuff you will learn easily if you do.

Thanks a bunch! Yeah I did search around for the weighting part of needles but just was not finding it, mainly just wood and components, and colors. I tried looking other places but most of the plug builders focus mainly on poppers and some swimmers, needles being an oddball.

I appreciate everyone's patience, this is why I always end up finding most of my information here Cheers!