Snowblower Help

[Raven]

is to open the gas cap and smell the fuel !!

if it smells just like ordinary gas your probably ok

if it smells more like turpentine then you might have to yank the carb and rebuild it....they sell kits to do that for like 15-25 bucks.... the trick is to take digital pics of the steps and take notes... never rely on your memory

things in fuel separate out and they get gummy when the fuel goes bad
this will block/clog the low or high speed jets... think of them as metering holes... they screw into the carb...like a little brass screw with a specially gauged hole in the middle...
many times you can just blow them out with air but be extremely careful of BLOW back even with spray cans...

always wear eye protection

there are products that can clean them out without the need for dissasembly....thats only for the worst case scenario when they are clogged solid


it's not that difficult...if you have the right tools...

it pays to drain the tank and carb in the spring so this doesnt happen...or as Prof M said ..........add the stabilizer

[justplugit]

I have always gone by the theory that, if it's a metal tank fill it with stabilized gas before storage. That will avoid rust in the tank.
If it's plastic you should empty the tank by running it dry before storing.

Using stabilizer all the time is the best way to go to avoid condensation
and a "senior moment."

Rav, i perfer a little gum out from time to time rather then rebuild.
I've never ever been able to re-adjust a needle valve.

[Slipknot]

the worse thing is to have the mice eat a hole in the supply hose and realize it after you fill it damn mice

that ethenol they add has really screwed up lots of motors,carbs , boat fuel tanks etc. I gave up on some of my yard thing and got electric for some of the lower powered things like hedge trimmer. It's frustrating even using stabil.

your snowblower might be alright, try starting it, if it runs either drain it or add more fresh gas 89 octane and some stabilizer.

[Raven]

Originally Posted by justplugit

Rav, i perfer a little gum out from time to time rather then rebuild.
I've never ever been able to re-adjust a needle valve.

needle valves are easy if you know the trick....

and that is............

to see how many 1/4 turns it takes before it seats....
on disassembly....


in general though:
when you install a new one you seat the needle
valve (lightly) then turn it loose again 3 1/4 turns and then try it....

it might need a 1/4 turn more or less , but you have to think in quarter turns
NOT half turns....and be sure to give
the motor a few minutes at each quarter turn setting to adjust
itself and see if it runs happier...

the guy who taught me built his own carburetors....

[justplugit]

Oh man Rav, Thanks, i've messed up so many engines
with needle valves.

[Bronko]

Thanks guys!