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Plug Building - Got Wood? Got Plug?

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Old 01-09-2007, 10:29 PM   #1
crash
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Well, I tossed two unfished plugs into a jug of water tonight. One was ready to fish, one was in scuffcoat stage. I smashed the scuffcoat one with a hammer to cause a crack and see what happens(had to try out my new trim hammer anyways). I plan on fishing the finished one, so I spared the hammer. Both were needles made of birch and are submerged. I use an untraditional method of sealing and scuffcoating, so I'll let you know how it works. I'll take them out tomorrow. They were both fine after the two hour check.
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Old 01-10-2007, 07:53 AM   #2
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I've been using the BLO/Binz combo a long time, with both, rattle cans and acrylics,even with Varnish as a top coat, the ONLY time I ever had a problem was when the mixture got too thick and gooey,or when I didnt allow it to dry completly or, I sanded the plug body down to, too ,fine a finish ... smooth plug= low adhesion....

It sound to me,(and I'm just guessin, what the hell do I know) like the sealer, gathered in the belly area and did not cure, I have found that over time, the mineral spirits evaporates from the mixture(in the dunking container) leaving a thicker mix behind that doesnt dry properly, I dump mine as soon as it gets to this stage, I do keep the dunk tank covered tightly when not in use to maximize life of the product...

Next batch, try wiping the plug with pure mineral spirits (allow some drying time) if the plug seems at all gummy,then raise the grain with some 180 grit.....then prime.

I personaly dip my plugs in binz the first coat, quickly brushing off the excess... after an overnight dry, I sand with #220, wipe with a tack cloth and spray with binz, after allowing an overnight dry, I wet sand with #600... the finish is as smooth as silk.. what more can we ask for...

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Old 01-10-2007, 08:30 AM   #3
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Your problem is water intrusion and wood selection. I've been selling paint for 7 years now and I see these types of problems all the time. That cracking around the belly hole is the first sign of swelling due to water intrusion. When water gets into any wood whether its the exterior walls of a house that wasn't flashed correctly or your plug, it will find it's way out "popping" the paint off in the process. I remember a few years back Mac had a run of plugs that did that, the bottle darters from the 2004 crazy swap. He instructed me to put a spoonful of epoxy into the belly hole and let it run along the thru-wire, it worked.

On the subject of base/finish consistency this is a mis-nomer. Back in the old days of oil this was the preferred sysytem. Now that VOC regs have taken so much out of the oil paint, it's really only an effective base coat (save a few interior apps. like cabinets etc.), the oil primer will penentrate the wood making a strongly bonded base but subsequent coats will not penetrate one another and that's how oil paints form their bond, through penetration. Acrylic paints are formulated to stick therefore, they are a much better choice for going over oils and oil primer/Acylic Latex Topcoat is now the preffered system for any bare wood surface. BIN is not oil based anyway it's Alcohol based.

Solution: Use better wood... ditch the BIN it's stopping the penetration of the oil, use Val Oil for sealer and if you're going to use rattle cans only let them "tack" before applying subsequent coats this way they will become almost like one coat of paint.

Last edited by Canalman; 01-10-2007 at 08:36 AM..

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Old 01-10-2007, 08:38 AM   #4
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Upon looking at your pic more closely it looks like one layer of the paint is separating from the others. You need to narrow down which coat that is and adress that too.

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Old 01-10-2007, 11:59 AM   #5
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I'm surprised no one suggested this... it appears that you're seating your belly grommet after going through all your other precautions: sealing, sanding, etc. The simple act of driving the flange's lip flush to the lure body breaks your primer/paint "seal" and creates a potential water invasion point. Water gets behind the sleeve and collects under the flange... unless you apply some epoxy to the swivel hole and under the grommet before seating.
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Old 01-10-2007, 12:49 PM   #6
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Another good point

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Old 01-10-2007, 04:52 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PASurfer View Post
I'm surprised no one suggested this... it appears that you're seating your belly grommet after going through all your other precautions: sealing, sanding, etc. The simple act of driving the flange's lip flush to the lure body breaks your primer/paint "seal" and creates a potential water invasion point. Water gets behind the sleeve and collects under the flange... unless you apply some epoxy to the swivel hole and under the grommet before seating.
Bingo ,,, bet thats it ,,, always wondered when having a hard time getting a wire through a plug if it was scoring the sealer ... so many variables .

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Old 01-10-2007, 05:06 PM   #8
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poplar is interior wood for reason, it's junk!!!
swells up too much when it gets wet no matter where the intrusion is.
the water in not seeking a way out causing the layers of paint and primer to separate, it'd the expanision, if it were house siding, then the case may be different.

use a better wood

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Old 01-10-2007, 04:46 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crash View Post
Well, I tossed two unfished plugs into a jug of water tonight. One was ready to fish, one was in scuffcoat stage. I smashed the scuffcoat one with a hammer to cause a crack and see what happens(had to try out my new trim hammer anyways). I plan on fishing the finished one, so I spared the hammer. Both were needles made of birch and are submerged. I use an untraditional method of sealing and scuffcoating, so I'll let you know how it works. I'll take them out tomorrow. They were both fine after the two hour check.
You kill me Charlie ... Remind me of Mac smashing his plugs with a hammer .. or was it a hatchet ??

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