All Done With Envirotex!

[Canalman]

[reelecstasy]

Lets see some pics Dave.....

[ProfessorM]

Bruce if you can bring one of those things I gave you to bigfish's and see if that auto type stuff would be a decent type of finish for it. I would be interested in the results. Paul

[justplugit]

As you know,E tex can be trickey, one batch great the next,what happened?
I have found since heating it when mixing i have had very good results. It becomes more fluid when warm and flows much better leaving a nice smooth finish. Just take the container i mix in,and place it in a hot cup of water while mixing and applying.

[Karl F]

yep JPI, I warm up the bottles in a pan of hot water, jut like I used ta do the formula bottles many moons ago, for the kids-----> then pour out exact one to one mix, get the wide wooden popsicle type sticks at ACMoore, 15 second clockwise, 15second counterclockwise, SLOW stir, repeat for until at least 3 minutes have run off the clock, if you use the wide stick and do it nice and slow....
-----> no bubbles..... very bright lights... helps ya see the bald spots, I don't throw the brush away till I'm done flippin, so I can pull any holidays out.
flippin seems to be less with the warm mix, woulda thought opposite
mix up a batch with some glitter in it too, helps you really get a feel for how long to mix... if you don't mix it correctly=====tacky.... last ones I did (those dannys) were totally dry in under 12 hours.

[mrpogie]

The problem I find the worst with auto urethane is damage from hook swing. The plugs I've coated with auto clears and used that way started to look like crap after a few outings even when I didn't catch fish on them. It got even worse when I switched to VMC's, they're a lot sharper than Mustads There's really nothing you can do about rocks or bluefish for that matter. I've been in the auto body business for 28 years, before 2 part urethanes were ever made. I've tried most of them on plugs, imron, delthane, DC 3000 (which is what I use now) and I haven't found one that would stand up on it's own. I tried a PPG product called F 3910 which is what the MBTA decided on for their train cars after exhauastive tests for durability when washing the graffiti off with lacquer thinner. It failed miserably on plugs. They are rock hard for chemical resistance, protection against acid rain and bird droppings. But the properties that make them resist chemicals also make them brittle. An example would be to look at the hood of a car that is a year old or more and notice the chips on the front of it from pebbles kicked up from the road. All cars have some if they get driven enough. Manufacturers know it also. That is why most cars have plastic cladding or a heavy undercoating under the paint on the bottom of the doors and rockers for chip protection, because the clear won't hold up. Some even use pieces of clear vinyl in spots that will get sandblasted like on the front edge of pickup beds. The two things I've found that help me the most with durability are mil thickness and resiliency. I haven't run into a product yet that is tough with a couple of thin coats. That doesn't mean there isn't one out there, we just haven't found it yet. No system is perfect and I'm always looking to improve the way I do things. Most epoxies are more resilient than auto urethane and the thickness of the coats can only help.I only use an auto urethane clear because it is available to me on a daily basis. I use it for a buffer coat between my color and my epoxy. I could use a spray can of clear and get the same results I'm getting now. I believe it's the epoxy not the auto clear that does all the work. If you make a lot of plugs and are looking for fast results, give auto clears a try. If you're looking for longer duration of your finish I would reccomend trying an epoxy. ...mrpogie

[Backbeach Jake]

Auto urethane clears is one of the reasons that I quit painting cars after 35 years. They are dangerous to use. If you're spraying it you should be suited up in Tyvek and wearing an air supplied respirator. Your skin should never touch it, you will absorb the isocyanate component right through your skin. Nitril gloves are the routine. And then there's the cost Does leave a pretty shine tho.