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Plug Building - Got Wood? Got Plug? |
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01-18-2010, 05:43 PM
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Here and There Seasonally
Posts: 5,985
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tagger
Joe you'll find your plugs are much tougher if they are hard underneath the paint and clear coat .. I'm using death in a can ... cpes.. good stuff ,,very toxic .. what eles is new ..
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Gives ya a nice glow...
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01-18-2010, 07:18 PM
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#2
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Oblivious // Grunt, Grunt Master
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: over the hill
Posts: 6,682
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OK.....here is the straight dope from an excellent book by Bob Flexner called "Understanding Wood Finishing".
Linseed oil comes from flax seed, but dries too slowly to be useful.
Boiled Linseed oil is made by adding metallic driers to speed drying (they used to heat the oil to dissolve them hence the "boiled" name). BLO penetrates deeply because it dries so slowly but has poor water resistance.
Tung oil comes from Tung trees in China. It is used in many high end paints and varnishes because it is more water resistant than BLO, but only after 5-6 coats used by itself. It is gummy when thick (dries soft like BLO)
Varnish, is an oil to which resin (polyurethane is a resin) has been added then heated. It dries much faster than straight oils. It doesn't penetrate as deeply because of it's shorter drying time, but is more water resistant and dries "harder".
CPES is a volatile thin form of epoxy that was developed to kill plug builders in Brockton and keep them from flooding the market with penis replica plugs.
Hope that straightens things out a bit.
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01-19-2010, 09:27 AM
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#3
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: S. Boston, MA
Posts: 214
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Quote:
Originally Posted by numbskull
CPES is a volatile thin form of epoxy that was developed to kill plug builders in Brockton and keep them from flooding the market with penis replica plugs.
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01-19-2010, 09:55 AM
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#4
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........
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 22,805
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in the old days
of wooden ships
and wooden Gutters on houses
...the installers would fill the gutters
with Linseed oil to water proof them 
and have the drain all stuffed up
But...
I like tung oil for gun stocks too..
used to apply it with my thumb
and you can do many coats too.
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01-19-2010, 10:58 AM
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#5
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: L.I.NY
Posts: 86
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I just sealed a couple of batches using Polyurethane /turpentine .
About 60/40 . I soaked no more than 5 minutes ,hung out to dry .
Results seem good . dried faster than blo [if that stuff ever dries?] 2days felt good to go .
I've been giving plugs a light sanding before priming . The poly seemed like it would prevent good adhesion. After a light sanding priming went well .. Paint to follow 
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01-19-2010, 01:19 PM
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#6
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Certified Mass-hole
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Jackson, NJ but born and raised in Massachusetts.
Posts: 1,223
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Good thing we have the CPES taking care of the Brockton problem.
Last edited by Tagger; 01-19-2010 at 01:40 PM..
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01-19-2010, 01:48 PM
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#7
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Hydro Orientated Lures
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Brockton,Ma
Posts: 8,484
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Quote:
Originally Posted by numbskull
CPES is a volatile thin form of epoxy that was developed to kill plug builders in Brockton and keep them from flooding the market with penis replica plugs.
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This Valentines Day I'll be giving out the evasive vagina plug . One has your name on it .. No strings attached ..
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Belcher Goonfoock (retired)
(dob 4-21-07)
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01-19-2010, 02:59 PM
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#8
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Great White Scup Hunter
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: In the Corner...
Posts: 2,251
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tagger
This Valentines Day I'll be giving out the evasive vagina plug . One has your name on it .. No strings attached ..
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01-19-2010, 06:04 PM
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#9
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: plymouth,ma
Posts: 1,142
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I've been using helmsmans spar varnish for a while and I like the results but now that I am working on maple swimmers I was worried about weight gain from the 1 hour soak I usually do.
I just took the big maple donny's I was working on and took a rag and wiped the exterior down with the varnish. In a day or two once they are dried I'll dunk em to get the insides sealed. I'm hoping that doing the outside first will cut down on how much gets soaked up when I dunk them.
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01-19-2010, 06:13 PM
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#10
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 5,945
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tagger
This Valentines Day I'll be giving out the evasive vagina plug . One has your name on it .. No strings attached ..
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Wow.. I have heard they are very expensive, and tricky...don't always give you the desired action, demands constant change of colors on the bucktail and hardware, wants bronze at times, nickel or SS at others, and you can't use them for 5 days or so out of every month, tempermental too, I have been told if they find out you use another lure, they will never let you use them again.....
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01-19-2010, 07:31 PM
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#11
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Hydro Orientated Lures
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Brockton,Ma
Posts: 8,484
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I was trying to hold off until plugfest but I've been working on a scratch and sniff fishing lure ..  patend pending ..
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Belcher Goonfoock (retired)
(dob 4-21-07)
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01-19-2010, 08:20 PM
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#12
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Super Moderator
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Middleboro MA
Posts: 17,126
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I remember years ago Hab mentioning tung oil
you may find that different woods require different sealers, some may work well with a mixture of tung oil and varnish, some may be fine with tung oil thinned, some woods do fine with propianite. You have to keep in mind it's a system and primer has to be able to adhere to whatever you use.
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01-19-2010, 09:24 PM
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#13
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Hydro Orientated Lures
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Brockton,Ma
Posts: 8,484
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Didn't CCB use Laquer ? I think sealer and top coat ..
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Belcher Goonfoock (retired)
(dob 4-21-07)
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01-19-2010, 10:29 PM
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#14
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Great White Scup Hunter
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: In the Corner...
Posts: 2,251
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slipknot
I remember years ago Hab mentioning tung oil
you may find that different woods require different sealers, some may work well with a mixture of tung oil and varnish, some may be fine with tung oil thinned, some woods do fine with propianite. You have to keep in mind it's a system and primer has to be able to adhere to whatever you use.
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This is DEAD ON,,,,, The only thing I can add to this is that the softer the wood the more important it is to harden the blank before primer, paint and epoxy or your plug will break like and egg the first rock it bounces off.  
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