Sunday morning post?

[eskimo]

I swam a maple junior (I think it was weighted) with a lefty 2 high slot and although it swam deeper it didn't tag bottom where I swim plugs and its only 5'.

I bet a maple rattler slope head would go deep.

[JLH]

Originally Posted by eskimo

I swam a maple junior (I think it was weighted) with a lefty 2 high slot and although it swam deeper it didn't tag bottom where I swim plugs and its only 5'.

I bet a maple rattler slope head would go deep.

Thanks maybe I'll have to cut a slope head on one and see how it swims.

I got some info from someone who fishes the originals pretty often and he said they probably get down around 8' or maybe more. Not sure if these will get that deep or not. I still need to swim them in some open water.

[numbskull]

Originally Posted by JLH

Thanks maybe I'll have to cut a slope head on one and see how it swims.

I got some info from someone who fishes the originals pretty often and he said they probably get down around 8' or maybe more. Not sure if these will get that deep or not. I still need to swim them in some open water.

The original large maple I x-rayed has a 5/16 x 1/4" wt 3 3/8" from the nose. It weighed 3.55 oz rigged but WITHOUT hooks
I would not, however, focus on building exactly to these dimensions.
Maple varies a lot in weight. To start I would float your plug rigged with hooks in water and, using a rubber band to hold on different weights in different locations, weight it to float with only its back just proud of the water (the buoyancy in saltwater will be greater).

I have built a number of maples in both sizes and fished them but without much success. If you are trying to get deep the conrad is a better option (I think).

Neither the conrad or the maple are great in current because of their wide wag (which increases resistance and pulls the plug up). You might try a lefty2 high slot lip on the bigger maple body (+/- adding a slope to the head) if you want to stay stable in current. I've not done this but I have had success doing so with the large pine body and I think Musso may have actually made some special pines this way (just a guess based on a story I heard about a special pine he built).

[JLH]

Originally Posted by numbskull

The original large maple I x-rayed has a 5/16 x 1/4" wt 3 3/8" from the nose. It weighed 3.55 oz rigged but WITHOUT hooks
I would not, however, focus on building exactly to these dimensions.
Maple varies a lot in weight. To start I would float your plug rigged with hooks in water and, using a rubber band to hold on different weights in different locations, weight it to float with only its back just proud of the water (the buoyancy in saltwater will be greater).

I have built a number of maples in both sizes and fished them but without much success. If you are trying to get deep the conrad is a better option (I think).

Neither the conrad or the maple are great in current because of their wide wag (which increases resistance and pulls the plug up). You might try a lefty2 high slot lip on the bigger maple body (+/- adding a slope to the head) if you want to stay stable in current. I've not done this but I have had success doing so with the large pine body and I think Musso may have actually made some special pines this way (just a guess based on a story I heard about a special pine he built).

Thanks George! I did try a version of the maple with the left 2 lip which I preferred over the pike lip on the pine version but it seemed to swim almost identically to the one with the pikie 2 lip. I will try adding some weight to the ones I've built to see how it impacts the action and depth. The slope head is a nice idea as well that I'm going to try out.


I did finally get around to building some larger needles and test swam them this weekend. They are 9.25" and depending on the version I was testing they ranged from 3oz up to 4.3oz. I'm liking the skinnier 3oz version the best so far.

[pbadad]

Time to apply the finish coat. E - text . Also trying a concrete sealer on some personal plugs. I'm trying to find a better finish. Harder and durable. I have a few needles from an unknown builder which show virtually no wear. He was a boat builder but would not reveal his finish. Always in search of the "Holy Grail" of finishing.

[JLH]

Originally Posted by numbskull

The original large maple I x-rayed has a 5/16 x 1/4" wt 3 3/8" from the nose. It weighed 3.55 oz rigged but WITHOUT hooks
I would not, however, focus on building exactly to these dimensions.
Maple varies a lot in weight. To start I would float your plug rigged with hooks in water and, using a rubber band to hold on different weights in different locations, weight it to float with only its back just proud of the water (the buoyancy in saltwater will be greater).

I have built a number of maples in both sizes and fished them but without much success. If you are trying to get deep the conrad is a better option (I think).

Neither the conrad or the maple are great in current because of their wide wag (which increases resistance and pulls the plug up). You might try a lefty2 high slot lip on the bigger maple body (+/- adding a slope to the head) if you want to stay stable in current. I've not done this but I have had success doing so with the large pine body and I think Musso may have actually made some special pines this way (just a guess based on a story I heard about a special pine he built).

I added a little over 10 grams of weight to the belly of the maples and they both swim much nicer now. I'm not sure that they will be great plugs in fast current but definitely seem to want to get down deep in slower water. Still want to try one with a slop head to see if it will swim better (tighter) in fast moving water.