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Plug Building - Got Wood? Got Plug?

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Old 01-22-2002, 10:14 AM   #31
jenty
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Krispy;

What are you mixing the Devcon with? When I first started, I was using a toothpick and I had that problem. Since then, I changed to an old butterknife for mixing and since I haven't had any problems. It seems the Devcon isn't as forgiving as everyone thinks, and has to be mixed well. Try that. Hope this helps.

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Old 01-22-2002, 12:11 PM   #32
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Chris, can you think of anything you're doing differently in your procedure since this has started happening? Or any product you've changed ? ...mrpogie
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Old 01-22-2002, 01:58 PM   #33
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I think it may be because I eopxied 1 day after painting. Could the epoxy sheet from curing paint fumes?
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Old 01-22-2002, 06:35 PM   #34
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The paint should be good and dry and totally cured before epoxying. That can be a problem and sounds like what it may be.
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Old 01-22-2002, 09:23 PM   #35
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Its gotta be because your not mixing it enough. I epoxy mine about an hour or 2 after I paint them. I haven't had any problems yet. Just a thought.

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Old 01-24-2002, 05:48 AM   #36
Bob Senior
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Krispy:

What do you mean by "sheeting?" Did the epoxy not dry after a couple of days?

I'm using Famowood and it takes about 12 hours for it to set up; a day and a half for the plugs to be handleable. But when they do dry, the finish is beautiful!

In another application a few years ago (model airplane wings), I used some envirotex, thinned with acetone, but I didn't mix it thoroughly enough before adding the acetone. It just didn't dry. I ended up having to peel off the fiberglass, wash the surfaces with acetone, and start over. But the second batch, stirred with about 100 strokes of a tongue depresser before thinning, worked fine.

As a result of that experience, I mix epoxy until I think it's ready, and then mix it again.
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Old 01-24-2002, 12:59 PM   #37
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The epoxy dried, in about average time on the plugs that didn't work. Its that the epoxy drew together, like beads of oil in a frying pan. I've used Famowood on previous plugs w/ good success, except for a little dripping and Devcon 30 is the old standby. I used both types and they both did the "beading" thing. I now believe that the paint needs to be fully cured before epoxying.
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Old 01-24-2002, 06:40 PM   #38
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Chris, are you using hardwood dowels and did you use waterseal on both batches. ...mrpogie
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Old 01-25-2002, 10:34 AM   #39
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Yes and yes
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Old 01-25-2002, 01:04 PM   #40
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Did you ever have a batch of plugs that were made out of dowels and used waterseal on that that the epoxy cured correctly. As I stated in an earlier post I've never tried waterseal on anything but white pine which is much softer and more absorbent than hardwood. Did you ever do a test piece of dowel? ...mrpogie
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Old 01-25-2002, 02:59 PM   #41
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Oh yeah, I've got a whole line of metal lipped Dannys and Cowboys completed. I don't think the waterseal would affect the epoxy after its been painted anyways. Primer and couple coats of paint encapsulate the plug. I think its the paint that needs to be fully cured
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Old 01-25-2002, 03:01 PM   #42
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Are you still using waterseal ?
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Old 01-25-2002, 05:48 PM   #43
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For now, I read a thread about some stuff called Minwax wood hardner. This guy dunks the plug in a piece of pvc pipe with a cap glued on the bottom. He says the plug comes out very hard and sandable. I think I'm going to go to Home Depot and check that stuff out tonight. I'll let you know if I get it and how I make out. What's a cowboy? got a pic? ...mrpogie
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Old 01-26-2002, 01:14 PM   #44
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I call metal lip swimmers "cowboys", I don't know where or why I picked that up.
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Old 01-30-2002, 05:58 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally posted by Tattoo
Slip, never got anything from 10X10. Did he send an email?

Cox changed some things on their end, my email address has changed.

And your new Email address is ????

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