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Plug Building - Got Wood? Got Plug?

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Old 01-03-2010, 08:56 AM   #1
numbskull
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No comments on the patched misdrills, by the way. The darter deflected when I through drilled the weight, the lipless swimmer I forgot was off center drilled.

Epoxy and 1/8" dowel cures many ills.


The other lesson for the week is that soft maple is a SPONGE. Had a darter go from 2.1 to 2.9 oz (2.8 after drying) after 6 hours soak, and a wad go from 2.0-2.8, though it dried down to 2.4. Sort of wrecks havoc with any attempt to weight it before you seal it.
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Old 01-03-2010, 09:00 AM   #2
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I thought that was where the weight was.. maybe I should move up a few seats...

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Old 01-03-2010, 09:08 AM   #3
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Quote:
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I thought that was where the weight was.. maybe I should move up a few seats...
Actually, I think most plugs are not exactly round, particularly after you sand them. The softer earlywood (I think that is what it is called) machines faster than the harder latewood (darker grain lines). That is probably a factor, too.
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Old 01-03-2010, 09:08 AM   #4
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The base of my lathe is two parallel tubes. I laid a spun blank on in and it rolled, stopped rolled back a little and stopped.
I had to have done that a thousand times in the past but never took notice. The wood and the tubes only touch at a point, barely at all, and the wood rolls very easily. When it stops mark the top.
If the lathe base isn't built like that I'm sure that mocking one up and leveling it would be a snap.

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Old 01-03-2010, 09:16 AM   #5
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Good morning. I see we're all having fun. Been busy sealing the remainder of the plug battallion. I started to dip primer; zinseer gold label , cut 2-1. so far so good. 2 coats. No smell , overspray and spray gun cleaning. Does anybody dip primer? Here's my low buck dripping system.
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Old 01-03-2010, 09:19 AM   #6
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Morning fellow addicts and Happy New Year! George what type of sealer do you use? Why soak for so long?

Almost time to get our fish on!!!
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Old 01-03-2010, 09:31 AM   #7
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I use Valoil/MS, Larry. Do you build with soft maple? AYC, pine barely absorb any sealer, and I only seal for an hour or two. Soft maple (and birch) are different, they suck the stuff up. They suck water up, too. And they split. The more sealer you get in them, the less room for water, the less water, the less expansion and contraction, the less movement, the less splitting (and less waterlogging).

I think sealing a plug is not about a thin coating on the outside (very little water gets absorbed perpendicular to the wood fibers). It is about building a barrier in the exposed end grain. Since maple transports water (or sealer) very quickly, my theory is that a quick dunk gets drawn in and doesn't seal much.
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Old 01-03-2010, 09:37 AM   #8
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I knew you were using maple George. Yeah I use AYC exclusively for the plugs I build......you are correct it does not absorb the BLO/Mins I use very much! I did some testing once (if anyone is interested?) I sealed a series of bodies (AYC) for different periods of time from 1 minute to 1 hour and found no more penetration from 1 minute to one hour? I only soak mine for a minute or so......wipe dry and I let them stand to dry for about 5 days minimum before I prime. I have never had any water problems, splitting or adhesion problems. George is the rate of drying weight similar from one plug to the next after sealing? That is to say if you soak 2 plugs for the same amount of time, after drying will they both weigh the same?

Almost time to get our fish on!!!
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Old 01-03-2010, 09:39 AM   #9
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Cool stuff, Dave. You might try relieving the edges on the jointed like Musso did on his jointed darters. Jointed plugs that bend to 90 degrees and stop cast better than those that stop short of 90 degrees.

Also, why the 4 lines on the darter? One for the hook, one for the slope starting, what are the other two? Are you weighting them?
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Old 01-03-2010, 09:27 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pbadad View Post
Does anybody dip primer? Here's my low buck dripping system.
I brush /hypodermic cpes thru oven heated plugs (20 min 200 degree's) .. sucs in like a basatagde .. Stuff is so expensive I don't want to mix dipping batches . I'm looking for something to dip .. I thought zinnser aerosol was to chalky .. yours look better .. Every year ya try something new it takes a whole fishing season to see how it holds up .. very slow process unless someone succesful is willing to share information ,., not

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Old 01-03-2010, 09:29 AM   #11
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I spray Zinseer Gold Cover Stain from a rattle can......it needs a good amount of sanding but it works great! I would be afraid to dip it....to heavy!

Almost time to get our fish on!!!
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Old 01-03-2010, 09:34 AM   #12
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Quote:
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I spray Zinseer Gold Cover Stain from a rattle can......it needs a good amount of sanding but it works great! I would be afraid to dip it....to heavy!
I bought a gallon and dipped. Then sanded myself silly. Maybe I should have reduced it some.
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Old 01-03-2010, 09:36 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pbadad View Post
Good morning. I see we're all having fun. Been busy sealing the remainder of the plug battallion. I started to dip primer; zinseer gold label , cut 2-1. so far so good. 2 coats. No smell , overspray and spray gun cleaning. Does anybody dip primer? Here's my low buck dripping system.
how do keep the runny paint from running out of eye an hook holes, leaving no rivers down the side of the plug...never had any luck dipping,but love the primer inside all the holes.
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