I've seen Riding Giants probably 2 or 3 dozen times - that one wave is still the most incredible display of Nature's force I've ever seen - on top of the fact that he actually dropped in on it...
I still like Greg Noll's comment best - if there's one guy that oughta know, it's him
Laird at Teahupo, Tahiti:
"There is no royal road to this heavy surf-fishing. With all the appliances for comfort experience can suggest, there is a certain amount of hard work to be done and exposure to be bourne as a part of the price of success." From "Striped Bass," Scribner's Magazine, 1881.
Threaded Mode