Lawn Care Advice

[Fishpart]

Originally Posted by Raven

ibtw: if you frequently see yellow shafted flickers on your lawn
probing it for bugs...you have grubs as its easier for them to get a meal there than banging on a tree... so , then you should first treat your lawn for grubs before starting your organic lawn care.

So what is the best way to eradicate the grubs??? I have a flicker colony going on..

[Slingah]

wow..alot of good stuff here..I am looking for the semi-easy way out....probaly go the Scotts route..
Squirrels have dug up the back yard pretty good the past couple of days??? are they eating grubs???

[Raven]

Originally Posted by Slingah

wow..alot of good stuff here..I am looking for the semi-easy way out....probaly go the Scotts route..
Squirrels have dug up the back yard pretty good the past couple of days??? are they eating grubs???

more than likely they're eating seeds or acorns buried by themselves
last fall or burried there by other squirrels who died or forgot where they burried them. If they are eating the grubs i'd be surprised.

[Raven]

Originally Posted by Fishpart

So what is the best way to eradicate the grubs??? I have a flicker colony going on..

other than rototilling to expose them to the birds you'll have to either use chemicals that target the grubs specifically or look for an organic grub killer...if there is such a thing. moles and shrews eat worms and grubs... typically keeping them in balance....

those grubs eat grass roots so they'll kill the lawn every time...
the grubs are there because Nature is out of balance in that lawn.

[Mr. Sandman]

Organic yards require much more in the way of materials (and work) and you will generally constantly be fighting weeds for the rest of your life. My good friend has a fully organic farm...talk about a weed (and bug) problem. Most "green" yards are loaded with weeds and when you ask the owners about them, they "just accept them". I have only seen a few really nice lawns that were organic and they were the exception, most look like %$%$%$%$.

As far as shallow root growth and run off these are the classic environmental excuses used to not fertilize your lawn. Grass is a rhizome...they HAVE SHALLOW ROOTS, its not a tree. Besides, the fertilizers today are a lot different then 20 years ago and they dissolve slowly over a period of weeks feeding the roots, the same way rainwater gets down there. I don't believe the shallow feed theory any more. And as far as run off and the eco damage it causes, I grant you if you dump a bag of scotts into a salt pond it is NOT good, but for most houses that don't have a run off issue directly into waterways, it is not a problem. It is spread out over such a large area and dissolves slowly. Most of the chemicals get fully absorbed by the foliage unless you have several inches of rain right after you put it down which would wash everything away, green or chem.

EVERY recent water test I have seen of salt ponds DIRECTLY points to Bird (and sometimes animal)Fecal Matter as the source for water nitrogen and not lawn firt. But try and have the birds removed from the ponds and you have the Feds on your back. the wackos come out and say it is the lawn fertilizers, sewers, housing to close to water...but when we have it fully tested and it is birds and you want the removed ASAP, they revolt! I know there are towns that had septic and run off issues but most of the major polluting problems are or have been resolved. In recent years the major nitrogen producer in ponds are geese and other waterfowl (IE cormorants)

I am using the chemicals...so I have time to fish.

Just cause it is "organic" doesn't necessarily means it any good.

How do you plan to get rid of insects? OK Milky Spore works well on grubs but it take several YEARS to get it going before it is effective. Put a bag of grub killer and and your done baby and your fishing that afternoon.


If you want to spend less, and have a much better looking lawn, go with the chemicals!! If you don't want to do it, have someone else do it.

[justplugit]

Originally Posted by Mr. Sandman

Just cause it is "organic" doesn't necessarily means it any good.

I agree, however when it comes to fertilizer an organic based N will be released slowly, especially in the spring when the soil temp is below 60deg as that is the temp needed for the microorganisms to break it down and make it available to the roots.

By using a %50 organic, the other %50 chemical will be released by water, not temp related, and green up your lawn early until the organic takes over.

Advantage, no quick lush growth from using a %25-%100 chemical fert that requires extra cutting and a faster growing grass which makes it more vulnerable to disease.

[OffTheHook13]

Pave the whole thing.

[Raven]

go to california

because over there they already did...

[MarshCappa]

This thread inspired me to Lime today. Next is the Scotts and that's about it till it's time to cut. I keep it simple and I get a decent lawn. I have moss in spots but the spectic tank and leeching field do a great job keeping the majority of the back yard green! My Dad calls it Septi Lawn.

[tattoobob]

I just signed up for tru-green chemlawn

I have a really tough time with crab grass the last 3 years and nothing I do is working it just gets worse.

They promised me it would go away or they would do it for free

the cost of them doing there service is less than I can buy the Scotts system 4