Bows...

[TBone]

As I've read a lot of the posts in here, a good majority of you guys are bow hunters. I've strictly hunted with a rifle, only three years, but in the Catskills where I hunt they allow you more tags and more hunting time. So my questinon is as a beginner bow hunter, can anyone reccomend a decent set up...say in the range of $200-400...Thanks.

[ReelChitty]

Tbone if I where you I would go to your local #^&#^&#^&#^&s sporting goods store, they have some decent setups there and in your price range. Also you can check your local hunting and fishing shops sometimes they get used ones that are in great condition. I know I almost bought a used browning one a few months back. Good luck hope you find something you like.

[mikecc]

Most bows have to be adjusted for draw length, peep sight, and knock placement. I'm sure some of us here can help ya but it is best to go to an archery shop where you can try different stabilizers, releases, sights & rests. Most Good archery shops will have you set up and shooting in the red on their indoor range on the first day.
IMO
Every company has good bows in the $400 range. Don't get stuck on any brand. Go and shoot each of them choose the bow that jumps the least and you feel comfortable with regardless of brand.

a few of my choices are either TM hunter or dropaway style rests . and Cobra makes a great wrapped fiber optic sight for the money.

[TheSpecialist]

TBone I recently started Archery hunting. I went to Reedy's Archery in Middleboro Mass, they are awsome there. I went down the first night, and the guy had me shooting for an hour. I found out what bows were in my budget, and went home to mull it all over. I went back 2 days later and bought a Hoyt Ultrasport. The kid spent the better part of an hour setting it up for me. This included adjusting the draw lenth, and weight. Placing the nock, and adjusting the peep. We then shot the bow, and adjusted the sights, this took about another 30 minutes or so. We then shot the bow for an hour making sure I was using correct form, and a consistant anchor point.

You will not get this kind of service from a big sporting goods store. They will sell you the bow and send you on your way, then you will have to figure it all out for yourself.
The bow I bought was about 350-400 with a drop away rest, quiver and pin site. I had to buy a release, and arrows. I got Beeman carbon arrows, they were about 60 / doz. I also bought a bow case. All said and done I spent between 500 and 600. Also Reedy's has layaway, you pick out your bow they get you all set up, and you can go down and shoot it anytime you want until you pay it off.

[mikecc]

I 2nd Reedy's archery thats where I shop.

http://www.reedysarchery.com/

[Goose]

In that price range I take it your talkin bow only. save your self alot of time and money and deal with a good archery shop... I use both Reedys & Trader Jan's in Fall River. Imo, Trader Jan's is not as hunter freindy as reedy's but I'm had better service at Traders as long as you deal with Jill and NOT her parents.

A good white tail bow should shoot at least 230 FPS(feet per second) most hunting bows do with a hunting arrow(heavier). For about $350 all bow company's make a bow that shoots 250-260 FPS. Another thing to consider is one cam or two. Most guys I see today are shooting one cam bows. A one cam bow is easier to tune verses tuning two cams. I personely have always shot two cams. IMO, its much smoother on the draw. I haven't pulled back every bow ever made but very few bows feel like a two cam. Let-off is another option to consider when buying, most will range from 65% to 80% let-off. If your looking to bag Pope & Young (record book bucks) then you must shoot no more then 65% .....I personley like 75% and 80% is nice too, especialy when you draw on that deer a little to soon and you gota hold it there and it feels like forever.

If you do spend about 350$ on a bow look to spend another $350 on accesseries(sight, rest arrows, release ect.). You won't regret a cent. You get to hunt deer when their at ease and no pressure. just wait till you bang one under your stand. Good Luck TB

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/forumd...p?s=&forumid=4

[TBone]

Thanks guys, I really appreciate the info...all good stuff. Now this is where my ignorance on the subject shows, but Goose what is a cam?

[TheSpecialist]

It's a specialized pully. Some bows have none, some 1, 1 1/2.

[Goose]

Not to go against what Bill said but, I think a more basic way to understand bow cam's is 1 or 2 cams. On the end of the bow there is what looks to be wheels(cams), some are actualy wheels and act as a wheel. Once you snoop around an archery shop and ask questions its fairly self explainatory.