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Eric Roach · 04-27-2014, 11:58 AM

Thanks, Ed. I think I'm following you here. I agree dry times can be improved by helping to dry the wood prior to sealing, and increasing airflow and temperature after sealing.

I think a concern would be using a sealer that trapped solvent underneath a "shell". the concern specifically is the solvent could then be forced out at higher temperatures when the air expanded in the wood and start attacking the primer, contributing to separation from the wood and layers in the system.

I always thought the perfect sealer would be something that penetrated well and cured/dried as a solid without the use of solvents -- like a seriously low-viscosity, 100% solids epoxy, or maybe a moisture-cured urethane that could cure within the wood using the wood's moisture. But honestly, the testing I just did kind of left me feeling what's more commonly available (and cheaper) is very acceptable for basement building.

04-27-2014, 11:58 AM	#15
Eric Roach Big E Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Seabrook, NH Posts: 681	Thanks, Ed. I think I'm following you here. I agree dry times can be improved by helping to dry the wood prior to sealing, and increasing airflow and temperature after sealing. I think a concern would be using a sealer that trapped solvent underneath a "shell". the concern specifically is the solvent could then be forced out at higher temperatures when the air expanded in the wood and start attacking the primer, contributing to separation from the wood and layers in the system. I always thought the perfect sealer would be something that penetrated well and cured/dried as a solid without the use of solvents -- like a seriously low-viscosity, 100% solids epoxy, or maybe a moisture-cured urethane that could cure within the wood using the wood's moisture. But honestly, the testing I just did kind of left me feeling what's more commonly available (and cheaper) is very acceptable for basement building.