Striper Talk Striped Bass Fishing, Surfcasting, Boating - View Single Post

Eric Roach · 10-04-2012, 07:45 AM

Thanks again.

I had a thread going about the math of buoyancy a while back, as I was trying to figure out the lead to get these to suspend. As it turned out (and as several of you mentioned), I couldn't do it exactly via math; the smaller the plug, the less tolerant it was to slight differences.

If anyone wants to try suspending plugs, this is what I learned:

Fill a 5 gallon bucket of seawater and add 1.5 cups of bleach to kill the organisms -- this is your test tank; if you have to use tap water, remember that the lure will be more buoyant when you use it in saltwater.
Seal and wire/screw-eye your plug and rig it with the split rings and hooks you want to use.
If you use a snap like a Breakaway or Tactical Angler etc., remember to rig it on your plug when weighting -- it will make a difference.
Using the tank, try different belly/tail weights until it "suspends" the way you like (I go for a slight, level sink).
At this point, you are ready to epoxy your belly weight void and paint/topcoat.
Epoxy will alter the plug a little bit, so be sure and test it again once it is completed; fine-tuning can be accomplished by trying different split rings or hook sizes/styles (if necessary).
Changing hooks gives you different retrieve charecteristics -- going lighter on the belly hook and heavier on the tail hook gives you a waking needle; going heavier on both gives you a faster sink, etc.

Some other notes:

I use hard maple because it gets you close to suspension without a lot of lead.
The styles of plugs I have made (so far) haven't necessitated the use of tail weights, which makes the process easier.
I've found weighting for a slight sink keeps the plug subsurface in the wash.
I've found that when the plug is truly level and close to neutrel buoyancy, a retrieve will actually drive the nose down as the water resistance works against the hooks; with a sharp twitch, this action is pronounced. If you want to null that out, angle the nose of the plug (you'll have to experiment).

Despite all the extra work, it's fun to end up with a balanced plug. In quietish, shallow water this style seems to do better for me than sinking needles.

10-04-2012, 07:45 AM	#15
Eric Roach Big E Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Seabrook, NH Posts: 681	Thanks again. I had a thread going about the math of buoyancy a while back, as I was trying to figure out the lead to get these to suspend. As it turned out (and as several of you mentioned), I couldn't do it exactly via math; the smaller the plug, the less tolerant it was to slight differences. If anyone wants to try suspending plugs, this is what I learned: Fill a 5 gallon bucket of seawater and add 1.5 cups of bleach to kill the organisms -- this is your test tank; if you have to use tap water, remember that the lure will be more buoyant when you use it in saltwater. Seal and wire/screw-eye your plug and rig it with the split rings and hooks you want to use. If you use a snap like a Breakaway or Tactical Angler etc., remember to rig it on your plug when weighting -- it will make a difference. Using the tank, try different belly/tail weights until it "suspends" the way you like (I go for a slight, level sink). At this point, you are ready to epoxy your belly weight void and paint/topcoat. Epoxy will alter the plug a little bit, so be sure and test it again once it is completed; fine-tuning can be accomplished by trying different split rings or hook sizes/styles (if necessary). Changing hooks gives you different retrieve charecteristics -- going lighter on the belly hook and heavier on the tail hook gives you a waking needle; going heavier on both gives you a faster sink, etc. Some other notes: I use hard maple because it gets you close to suspension without a lot of lead. The styles of plugs I have made (so far) haven't necessitated the use of tail weights, which makes the process easier. I've found weighting for a slight sink keeps the plug subsurface in the wash. I've found that when the plug is truly level and close to neutrel buoyancy, a retrieve will actually drive the nose down as the water resistance works against the hooks; with a sharp twitch, this action is pronounced. If you want to null that out, angle the nose of the plug (you'll have to experiment). Despite all the extra work, it's fun to end up with a balanced plug. In quietish, shallow water this style seems to do better for me than sinking needles. Last edited by Eric Roach; 10-05-2012 at 07:14 AM..