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ed morini · 11-23-2010, 12:23 AM

The iea of heating the object to be sealed was developed for the use of epoxy sealing/ coating. The theory works on the principle the contracting of the cooling air contained in the object. The heating causes the expansion of the air within the object ot expand and when it is rapidly cooled, the contraction of the air will pull the sealant into the stock. The process requires the rapid cooling of the stock. I don't think placing the heated piece in the sealer would accomplish the desired end results. I have seen and done this in sealing planking in boats. It works ok but I think thinning the sealant works just as well. BLO thinned, seals very but has drawbacks, fumes and drying time. Thinning epoxy with xylene at 4:1 (25% epoxy) will seal very well and is as effective as BLO IMO. It should be noted that epoxy requires between 3 to five coats unthinned to be waterproof.

11-23-2010, 12:23 AM	#6
ed morini Registered User iTrader: (0) Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: holliston,ma Posts: 120	sealer The iea of heating the object to be sealed was developed for the use of epoxy sealing/ coating. The theory works on the principle the contracting of the cooling air contained in the object. The heating causes the expansion of the air within the object ot expand and when it is rapidly cooled, the contraction of the air will pull the sealant into the stock. The process requires the rapid cooling of the stock. I don't think placing the heated piece in the sealer would accomplish the desired end results. I have seen and done this in sealing planking in boats. It works ok but I think thinning the sealant works just as well. BLO thinned, seals very but has drawbacks, fumes and drying time. Thinning epoxy with xylene at 4:1 (25% epoxy) will seal very well and is as effective as BLO IMO. It should be noted that epoxy requires between 3 to five coats unthinned to be waterproof.