one day i was trying to body surf ok...
first time....
and i was a total greenhorn out in CALI
not realizing just how dangerous the under tow was
at this particular spot
suddenly this huge wave toppled over me
and dragged me under water like fifteen feet down
and pinned me there
then proceeded to bowl me up the beach
luckily i new instinctively to just relax and let it happen
and i could hold my breath forever something i practiced for years
the next wave picks me up and i tried to swim then
but it scraped me up the rocks bad
cutting my chest the whole friggan way....
that was ONE Hell of a lesson....i'm telling ya.
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