So many process variations, goes to show many ways to reach the same end.
Here is my process for coating one lure, which is the same process I use in rod-building:
- Using denatured alcohol & Kimwipes, clean brush, mixing cup, tips of syringes, mixing cylinder, foil cup and needle.
- Let E-tex sit in warm water bath to slightly thin.
- Draw equal amounts of E-tex parts with syringes (3 cc each), and squirt into mixing cup. I make sure and wipe the side of the cup with the syringe tip to get that last, tiny bit into the mix.
- The mixing cylinder goes in the mixing cup, which then goes into the epoxy mixer. The mixer is turned on -- I set a timer for 5 minutes.
- Once mixed, cylinder is removed and cleaned.
- Epoxy is poured into foil cup.
- If there are any bubbles at all, they are lightly hit with a small butane torch.
- I take care to not dab the brush into the epoxy when picking it up to apply -- dabbing adds bubbles.
- Once applied, I hit any lingering bubbles lightly with the butane torch, and I pick out any dust hairs on the surface with a needle.
- The lure goes on the spinner.
Misc. Comments- The foil cup dissipates heat which extends pot life.
- I use a butane torch to eliminate bubbles instead of a heat gun because I feel the gun blows around too much dust.
- I use Envirotex spray over any iffy paints (e.g. Rust-Oleum Colorshift and some metallics) to give the E-tex epoxy a compatible surface. I also use the spray if I mixed paint brands or solvent bases.
- My spinner has lights as a heat source, but I do not turn up the heat until the E-tex has spun for 8 hours or so. I've messed-up some finishes by applying too much heat, too early.